Wedding Dress, Gowns and Crucial Bits and Bows...

Okay, I've been a little quiet for a while due to my deathly cold and night shifts! Wiped.

But lately, I've been thinking rather a lot about dresses!

For most brides to be, the most important part of the preparation process is the dress! The problem is, there are so many different cuts, and necklines, and styles, and fashions, and shades, and more! After an awful lot of research, there doesn't seem to be too much info on these differences, meaning that for the less bridal savvy, it can turn in to a mine field! So, in a vain attempt to fully understand myself, I am going to explore these differences, and hopefully create a comprehensive, understandable post for all!

Before we can go in to too much detail, we need to determine our dress size. Unfortuantely, too many women are buying dresses that they may love, but just look a little out of place o their particular shape!

Personally, I am a size ten hourglass, with wide hips and a large chest, standing at 5"2'. So I am short and curvy. A big poofy number would like ridiculous on me! It would only serve to make me look shorter and plumper, a depressing thought! On the flip side, anything with a plunging neckline, or a strapless dress, would give me the 'shelf' effect on my chest. Now, I am proud of my natural assets  but I don't think that the mother in law needs to be seeing too much of the girls!

So, are you a pear shape? Apple? Hourglass? Boyish? Are you a 10,12,14,16,or 28?

It doesn't matter what size or shape you are, there IS a dress out there for you, that WILL make you look as stunning as you deserve to look on your special day!

N.B. - Some images may be repeated to explore the details on the gowns, all images come from www.prudencegowns.com, and http://www.preownedweddingdresses.com/general-information/wedding-dress-101.html

First of all, necklines.

These can make or break a dress. They are NOT interchangeable. If it suits your shape and size, and you LIKE it, go for it! If not, don't even consider it.

Remember, this is just a guide and NOT science. The best way to know what suits you is to take someone you trust to be honest (mother?) and go to a good bridal store, and try on as many dresses as you can stomach. This way, you SHOULD get a good idea on what you like, and what likes you!

The section beneath is taken from www.preownedweddingdresses.com, as are all similar sections. (You will recognise the images and fonts)

Necklines

	Square: has a straight horizontal bodice that meets with straps in a 90 degree angle		Scoop: U shaped neckline with varying depth
	V-neck:  dips down in a V-shape		Sweetheart: neckline is shaped like the top half of a heart
	One Shoulder: strap across one shoulder only		Off the Shoulder: sits below the shoulders and highlights the collar bone and shoulders
	Sheer: semi sheer net or lace		Halter: has straps that wrap around the back of the neck
	High Neck: features high neck/t-shirt neckline		Queen Ann: high rising collar at the back of neckline that sculpts low across the chest
	Bateau: (boat neck): follows the curve of the collarbone to the very tip of  shoulders		Strapless straight across: straight across neckline with no curves and no straps
	Strapless slight curve: neckline curves slightly up or down with no straps		Strapless sweetheart: neckline is shaped like the top half of a heart

Square-

This neckline is usually found on more simplistic styles, and is very much a 1980's thing. For this neckline, I have struggled to find images, so if you're curious, I suggest a good old gander around Google. The benefits of this neckline are that you won't get the back fat lines, and it will suit most shapes. Unfortunately, if you are bigger chested, it will give that 'shelf' effect we need to avoid.

Scoop-

This can look beautiful, but only under certain circumstances. It does not suit heavily fitted dresses so much as it does to loose fittings gowns. As this neckline has unfortunately fallen from style, I found it very difficult to find an image from Prudence Gowns, so here is one I pulled from Google. Again, if you're curious, go and have a nosey.

V-neck-

This neckline looks beautiful on an older woman, as it draws attention away from the chest and accentuates the waist and height, as it draws the eye down the body.

Sweetheart-

This neckline is just brilliant. With the straps, it draws the eye to the chest, whilst also hiding the girls beneath lashings of gorgeous materials. It suits almost all frames, shapes and sizes, as it elongates the body and hides that dreaded armpit fat associated with larger chests. 

One Shoulder-

This neckline is an acquired taste. It is certainly not one that I am a fan of, but I know many others who love it. It is also a very fashionable cut right now. I don't believe that it suits big girls so much as it shows off all those lumpy bits on one side. Also, to me, it does not feel very bridal, more suitable for the maids maybe? Here's an example anyway.

Off The Shoulder-

This neckline definitely suits big, full chested girls as it disguises the ladies, while also drawing attention to the chest and collar bone. It's a strange thing to describe. It can look amazing, it can also look like your dress doesn't fit you. If you're going for this neckline, make sure it's supportive, and you get suitable underwear!

Sheer-

This neckline suits both big girls and small chested girls, as it draws the eye away from your babylons, and further up towards to neck and your beautiful, radiant face! With either lace or a sheer material, it can be truly stunning, and is one of my favorite necklines because of the vintage feel.

Halter-

This suits smaller chested girls due to the emphasis it places on the chest area. It also suits the boyish figure and it helps to create more curves.

High Neck-

The high neck neckline tends to be reserved for either vintage style dresses or dresses designed for the older generation, or more religious ceremony. It allows for modesty at all times.

Queen Anne-

This neckline is just amazing. I love it, I think it looks best when designed in lace, however, otherwise the cut just looks a little odd. This is also one of my favorite gowns I have ever seen!

Bateau-

A more sophisticated neckline, that draws the eye away from the chest. Unfortunately, it can also make you look a little chunkier.

Strapless Straight Across-

This neckline looks so much better on slim girls, than curvy ones, as it adds curves and gives the 'shelf' effect. Unfortunately, bigger girls need more support and a good fit, and this neckline does not provide this. So many women are buying gowns with this neckline and it is not suitable! It can, however, look great, as I said on smaller girls. (Remember, just my opinion! Nothing personal!)

Strapless Slight Curve-

This neckline does not vary much on the above, as the title said, it has a slight curve, which can enhance your natural curves even more. Not recommended for bigger girls, or bigger chests.

Strapless Sweetheart-

Again, this neckline, generally speaking, does not suit bigger girls with their babylons, as the support is just not there. It does however, look pretty damn amazing on the more slender boyish shape ladies as it adds curves in all the right places. Don't get me wrong, it can look great on bigger ladies too, but only if the cups are big enough and it is not too tight or the back fat will emerge!

Now, we have sorted the necklines, do you know what would suit you and you shape? It's given me a better idea!

Our next task is to look at silhouettes. This can be just as difficult! But most brides to be will have some idea of what they definitely do, and most definitely do not like! Clearly, some cuts will only suit certain shapes and sizes, some suit all!

Let's have a look shall we?

Silhouettes

	A-line: fitted at the bodice and flows out to the ground, with an unbroken line (resembling the outline of an uppercase A).		Ballgown: fitted at the bodice and has a waistline that leads to a full skirt
	Mermaid: fits closely to the body from the chest to the knee, then flares out to the hem		Sheath: fits very closely to the contours of the body. Has a straight skirt with no waist
	Trumpet: fits closely to the body until the midhip and then widens gradually to the hem. (resembling the mouth of a trumpet).  Often confused with mermaid, but trumpet flairs from mid-hip, whereas mermaid flairs below the knee

A-Line -

This is the most recognised of cuts due to it's popularity. It is a traditional cut that flatters almost all shapes, as it skims past the hips on bigger ladies, but tends to cling to the petite women. It can flatter, but it can also hinder.

Ballgown-

This cut is most recognised due to the popularity in celebrity weddings. Katie Price, and other such Princess wannabes love this cut. However, this cut does not like big girls. It makes the hips appear a lot larger than they are. It also does not flatter short ladies, as the width of the base of the gown makes the bride look even shorter.

Mermaid-

This cut flatters shorter, and slimmer ladies as it elongates the body due to the base flare. It can also flatter more curvaceous ladies that are not afraid to show of those sexy curves. If you are worried about your size, I would not recommend this cut.

Trumpet-

This cut is a little more forgiving for taller ladies wanting that slimming effect of the mermaid, but the height reduction of the ballgown cut. It is similar to a hybrid car. The best of both. I don't think there is anything bad I can say about this cut.

Sheath-

This cut doesn't generally cling to too many curves, so it is perfect for those of you who are self conscious. It doesn't elongate the body too much, but it is a very simple cut. For those of you who are more daring, I would suggest a more elaborate cut, such as the ballgown or mermaid.(N.B. the image I have selected contradicts what I said about the simplicity of the cut due to the neckline. I selected this image as it shows what a difference a neckline can make to a cut. Also, it is a less popular cut now than it has been in the past.)

Okay, so we now know the difference in cuts and necklines. Have you noticed that certain necklines suit certain cuts more than others? There is method in the madness!

Next, we need to have a look at waistlines. This is a little more difficult to point out in images than in previous sections, so bear with me on this one!

Waistlines

	Basque Waist: waistline features a low U or V shape		Dropped Waist: features a waist line below the natural waist at the mid hip
	Empire: has a raised waistline that sits just below the bust, from which the rest of the dress flows down to the hem		Natural Waist: waist line that hits at the natural waist (the indentation between the hips and the rib-cage)
	Princess: A-line silhouette with vertical seams down the front

Basque Waist-

Even to the less gown-savvy of us, we all know what a basque is right? This waist line suits any shape, adding curves to smaller ladies, and hiding curves on bigger ladies by sitting just above the hips.

Dropped Waist-

Generally, this waist does not like curves, as it ignores them and just turns you in to one big blob. This waist lie suits boyish shapes.

Empire Waist-

This waist line is flattering to bigger ladies and pear shapes as is skims straight over the stomach and hips and draws the eye down the body, also giving the illusion of height.

Natural Waist-

Obviously, this waist line is natural, as as such, will cling to hips if they are apparent, and also to your belly and your bum. Depending on the material, it can, however, work in your favor if you are a little nervous of these problem areas.

Princess Waist-

This waist line is flattering to almost all shapes and sizes as it provides support and structure, adding and removing curves as necessary.

Okay, our dream dress is starting to come together now. It's time to think about sleeves and straps.

Do you want sleeves at all? Spaghetti straps? Strapless? This is a personal choice, although there are pitfalls which you can easily avoid.

Spaghetti straps are not advised for curvy girls as it just looks silly. It provides no support, and is generally uncomfortable.

The same can be said for strapless as they can lead to the back and arm pit fat that we all want to avoid!

This is something that I won't go in to too much detail on, as, like I said, it is a personal choice, and depends on the type of ceremony you are having and any stipulations enforced by your venue/religion/family.

Sleeve Style

 

The next part we have to decide on is, of course, the length! This is usually determined by the theme of your big do, as retro weddings generally call for shorter dresses. Again, this is a personal choice. I could not imagine anything other than floor length! Again, I won't go in to too much detail, so here is an example of a shorter gown, and how they can still look beautiful.

Tea Length Gown-

Dress Length

Trains. These are always a pain in the rear end to decide on! You don't want to trip every five minutes, but it is still your wedding! Usually, this can be determined by the dress you decide on anyway, and you will fall so deeply in love with a gown that the train will appear perfect too!

Trains

Sweep: (also called brush) is the shortest  trains -usually, the back hem is only a few inches lower than the front hem

Court: slightly longer than the brush, extending approximately 3 feet behind the waist

Chapel Length: generally 1 1/3 yards or 4 feet from the waistline

Cathedral Length Train: generally 2 1/2 yards or 7 1/2 feet from the waistline

Fabrics! Good God, this bit is a difficult one. Different fabrics suit different cuts, waists, necklines and lengths. It is a good idea to go and try on gowns in all different fabrics to get idea of what feels nice, looks nice, and is within the correct price range and design. 

Fabrics

A wedding dress can be made from either silk or polyester.  How the fiber is woven determines if the dress is:

Charmeuse: lightweight, semi-lustrous soft,  is satin-like to the touch

Chiffon: Delicate, sheer, and transparent, with a soft finish. Often layered because of its transparency

Crepe: Light, soft, and thin, with a crinkled surface

Duchesse Satin: A lightweight hybrid of silk or polyester and rayon woven into a satin finish

Dupioni: A finish similar to shantung, but with thicker, coarser fibers, and a slight sheen

Georgette: Sheer and lightweight fabric with a crepe surface

Mikado: A brand of blended fibers, usually heavier than 100-percent silk

Organza: Crisp and sheer like chiffon, with a stiffer texture similar, but more flowing than tulle

Satin: heavy and smooth with a high sheen on one side

Shantung: Similar to a raw silk, characterized by its rough/nubby texture

Taffeta: Crisp and smooth, with a slight rib

Tulle: Netting (just like ballerina tutus)

Okay guys and gals, I hope that has been a help, if you have any questions, post a comment and I'll investigate it for you!

Thanks guys!